MountaineeringConditions: Members carry out and choose tactics for ascents themselves, and bring all their own gear.
Pobeda Peak (7,439m)
Service: All transfers from Bishkek to Base camps and back, accommodation in hotels, radio communications, full board, all legal formalities.
Note: All necessary food (bread, butter, sugar, etc) is provided by our organization, but it is desirable to bring special high-altitude food.
Season: 10 July - 20 August.
Size of Group: Unlimited
For additional payment: Helicopter flight from Issyk-Kul lake to Maida-Adyr, helicopter sightseeing flight over the peaks, helicopter transfer to route of ascent, preparing of route by guides, accompaniment by guides, helicopter flight to lower camp for rest, and other services.
The most northern 7,000m peak on our planet is Pobeda (7,439 m). The gigantic wall of the peak rises above Zvezdochka glacier at 3,000 and fills the space between the passes of Chon-Teren (5,488m) and Dikiy (5,200m) - more than 10km. The whole massif is a huge snow-ice wall, whose lone crest rises above 7,439m Severe weather conditions, low temperatures, and high precipitation allow a comparison of climbing on Pobeda with ascents of Himalayan giants. The most complicated routes ascend the northern wall to the eastern side of Pobeda. We offer the ascent of the most popular route from Dikiy pass (5,200m) across Vazha Pschavela peak (6,918m).
Plan of arrival to Base Camp and tactic of ascent
- Arrival in Bishkek.
- Transfer from Bishkek to Karakol (400km) situated on the Shore of Lake Issyk-Kul.
- Transfer from Karakol over Chon-Ashu pass (3,822m) to Maida-Adyr staging camp (2,540m)
- Helicopter flight to Base Camp on Southern Inylchek glacier. Camp is situated near the slopes of Treglavy peak at 4,000m.
- Acclimatization to the route and set-up of high altitude camps. Trip along Zvezdochka glacier (15km) to the northern wall and set-up of camp 1.
- Ascent through an icefall to Dikiy Pass (5,200m). Set-up of camp 2. Overnight.
- Ascent along the northern crest of Vazha Pshavela peak to 5,800m and set-up of camp 3. Overnight.
- Acclimatization ascent to 6,000m. Descent and overnight in camp 3.
- Descent along route of ascent to Base Camp.
- Day of rest and preparation for final ascent.
- Start of ascent. 2 day ascent to camp 3.
- Ascent along the northern ridge to 6,200 m. Set-up of camp 4. Overnight.
- Ascent of Vazh Pshavel peak (6,900m). Set-up of camp 5.
- Traverse along the western ridge to 7,200m. Camp 6.
- Summit of peak and descent to camp 6.
- Descent along route of ascent to camp 3.
- Descent to Base Camp on the Southern Inylchek glacier.
- Flight from Base Camp to Maida Adyr staging camp and return by car to Bishkek.
The whole program from day of arrival to return takes 25 days, taking into account reserve days in case of bad weather.